Sunday, January 22, 2017

"Freedom Forever", Andrea Pompilio FW17

"Freedom Forever"
Andrea Pompilio FW17
(look book photos: associated press)
One of the Italian fashion designers that I hold dearly close to heart is Andrea Pompilio. I was graciously invited this season to review the latest fall/winter 2017 collection. Shown at his Milanese studio, the motto for this collection is Freedom Forever: It’s “a prideful celebration of self expression and self-determination, a revolutionary message that’s universal as it is personal, related to everyone’s intimate and private sphere”. It felt like a metaphor of his exit from Canali last year, he became a “non-conformist to menswear”, and by all means creating hybrids of “men’s staples with mismatched fabrics.”

This season features shirts with wide raincoat-style zippers, sweaters come stitched with sweatshirts into two-faced tops, boat shoes are transformed into chunky moccasins. Joggers are reimaged into unconventional materials, while lumberjack checks are found on double-breasted sartorial blazers, enriched by fustian shoulders and suede patches. Other pieces include aviator bombers that are cut in stripy wool, reminiscent of Mexican ponchos, Shetland knitwear is contaminated by ‘Far West’ embroidery, American-flavored workwear is marked by white stitches, resembling the tacking of traditional Neapolitan tailors. Particularly the cashmere-like flannels alternating with British imported yarns, lodens and tartan jacquards, and felted wool bands emphasizing the silhouette of oversized pants and military coats are perhaps among some of my favorites.

Pompilio invited his long time friend Ana Gimeno Brugada as his this season’s biggest star in the look book: “I always admired Ana for her strong point of view on fashion, not interested in trends for the sake of trends” says Pompilio “but rather in the construction of a precise aesthetic that reflects her own way of being.” With Ana’s distinctive elegance, it is speaking true to his philosophy: clothes do not impose labels, but serve the character of their wearer.


xx Do the things you are passionate about; Learn from ones who inspire you; Strive to become an expert at what you do xx
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